Past midnight on the first weekend of Ramadan here. This street –– once the road upon which sultans would approach the mosque –– has been turned into a free iftar sponsored by the municipality. Once people leave, the cleaning crew stacks the tables to either side of the road and sprays down the street in preparation for the following evening's meal. Above the mosque, the white bodies of gulls lit by the lights of the mosque below. On returning home this morning, I walked on the empty streets of Üsküdar, the only cries those of the gulls, wheeling their way between buildings and the sea.